DBGB, with John and Kristina

Like the transformation of Soho from art galleries to commerce, mourning the gentrification of the Bowery is becoming a moot point, no more dirty, gritty New York. I do miss the griminess but I can't be overly upset when it proffers up Daniel Boulud in its place. In his only downtown venture, Daniel Boulud has made DBGB into a dark and inviting, French interpretation of American tavern eating. Fancy meets lowdown and it is nice. So nice we are already plotting when to go back for the other 11 links/bangers/saucisses/wieners on the menu.
DBGB Kitchen & Bar, 299 Bowery, NY, NY 10003 (at Houston)