L'asso

It was surprisingly boisterous but not packed at L'asso today. And then we realized all the hype and hoopla was coming from one rolicking table full of friends with maybe an owner sitting amongst them. The peals of laughter made for a cozy collegiate atmosphere, which is mildly preferable to overcrowded loud dinner scenes. Although both scenarios are good for business and you can't argue with that.
L'asso, 192 Mott St., NY, NY 10012 (at Kenmare)