We started walking up Lafayette, feeling uninspired, until we ended up many blocks further north than we had intended. But Menkui-tei is like that, capable of drawing us out on a hot summer day. It's great, straightforward Japanese, every dish is solid eating. Like this classic Japanese summertime plate, hiyashi chuka.
Menkui-tei, 63 Cooper Sq, NY, NY 10003 (near Astor Place)
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